Bronica sq 120 film back full#
Bronica sq 120 film back software#

From every possible angle through every possible step of assembly and reassembly. I'm not by any means an expert, just learned enough tricks to get by with work, and a lot of that has translated over into hobbies.Р”Р„nother piece of advice: take pictures. I'm pretty slammed with work at the moment, but will definitely make time to answer any question that I am able to. If this was a 135W back for the ETR, I'd offer to do it for you (when work calmed down a bit), but alas, I don't have an SQ.Р”Р„bsolutely. I've machined everything from casting wax, plastics, wood, brass, all the way up to stainless steel and grade 2 titanium. It is a small, desktop 5-axis CNC machine that can machine parts up to about 4.5 x 4.5 x 4 inches from lots and lots of materials. If you're serious about doing this, you can take a look at the PocketNC V2. I don't believe that there would be any parts that would be impossible to disassemble and reassemble, you just need to make sure you go slowly and carefully, and take lots of photos while you take things apart, so you have a reference to look at while you reassemble things. But the more detailed mechanical parts would need a more traditional subtractive process, or be sent off for binder-jet or SLS metal printing. Some of the parts are going to be pretty easy to 3D print, like the outer shell, and the mounting plate, etc. I've done this for a few enlarger parts I've duplicated and printed.

Bronica sq 120 film back software#

One trick I've learned is that anything that has a strong 2D profile, but not much complexity in the Z axis (such as gears or linkage arms) can generally be put on a flatbed scanner, and imported to your CAD software of choice (I usually use Fusion 360) then adjusted using physical measurements from your calipers. Not harbor freight) and some CAD software. ItРІР‚в„ўs fascinating to see how these parts were made, but it can be incredibly frustrating to put back together if you donРІР‚в„ўt document everything and take your time.Р”В¬urrent commercial 3d scanning equipment is nowhere near accurate enough for this task, even the majority of industrial metrology CMMs would have trouble getting points in between teeth on the gears.Р”Р„s others mentioned, your best bet would be an accurate pair of calipers (mitutoyo, etc. IРІР‚в„ўve done this process many times for other products, some just as complicated as a camera body or medium format back. STL printers like a FormLabs printer will get you the resolution you need for tiny parts, but you will pay a higher cost. Any missteps here could make it more difficult to reassemble if thatРІР‚в„ўs possible.Р”Р„s far as printer resolution goes, you will have difficulty using consumer grade printers. Photograph EVERY step of the process and each part. If you determine the function of each part as well, thereРІР‚в„ўs a chance you can combine parts into a single part 3D printing makes this more feasible. These attributes will be helpful when going to determine the feasibility of 3D printing the part. Note each part and which subassembly it belongs to, including what material it was made out of (if you can guess) and itРІР‚в„ўs manufacturing process. Dissecting a product like a complicated back like this should be done methodically: Going off of this, you should heavily document each step you take. But if I can do this somehow, I think it'd benefit alot of people who love the panoramic/cinematic format in an age where all the equipment we love is dying with no remedy.Р”Р„ny help or support will be much appreciated. I appreciate I am way out of my depth considering this viable. Please, hold your subjective views back for a second more - does anyone have any objective facts, resources, advice or names of people who could help me on this venture to accomplish my outlandish concept? But in this day and age I struggle to believe this is the case. I think the gears will be tough to figure out as I've been told there is no way to replace these.

Bronica sq 120 film back full#

Now, I know the internals and operational mechanism of these backs are far, far more complex than they appear, but there must be a way to take it apart to then be put back together again to full functionality. They found a way to have the 35mm film be spooled and wound horizontally and not vertically as is the norm with medium format backs. This thing is a marvel and masterpiece! Zenza did what even Hasselblad couldn't with their A2035 back. Now, you may think me crazy, but I want to disassemble the 135W back, have each and every piece meticulously 3D scanned in the hope to be able to recreate parts to maintain this piece of equipment, and even be able to make more.

Ive recently purchased a secondhand Bronica SQ 135W film back for my SQ-a after deciding to let my Xpan go.